Comparative Physicochemical Properties and Photoprotective Efficacy of Homemade and Commercial Herbal Sunscreens
Abstract
Ultraviolet (UV) radiation from the sun can cause significant damage to human skin, leading to both acute and chronic adverse effects. While commercial sunscreens provide protection, increasing consumer concerns about synthetic ingredients have driven interest toward natural alternatives. This study investigated the physicochemical properties and photoprotective efficacy of homemade and commercial herbal sunscreens available in the Turkish market. The homemade formulations were developed using scientifically validated herbal extracts with known photoprotective properties, including green tea (Camellia sinensis), aloe vera (Aloe barbadensis), carrot seed oil (Daucus carota), raspberry seed oil (Rubus idaeus), and lavender oil (Lavandula angustifolia). Five different herbal sunscreen formulations (F1-F5) were prepared using standardized procedures and compared with commercial products regarding pH, spreadability, homogeneity, stability, and estimated sun protection factor (SPF) values. The formulations were characterized using established physicochemical methods, including pH measurement, spreadability tests, microscopic examination, stability tests, and in vitro SPF determination. Results demonstrated that the homemade herbal formulations exhibited superior performance with pH values ranging from 6.7 to 7.1, which is optimal for skin compatibility. The homemade formulations showed excellent homogeneity (4-5/5) and stability (5/5), with estimated SPF values ranging from 30 to 34, significantly higher than most commercial herbal products (mean SPF 25.3 ± 4.2). Formulation F5, containing green tea extract and raspberry seed oil, exhibited the highest estimated SPF value (34) and excellent physicochemical properties. Microscopic examination revealed that mineral filter particles were well-dispersed in homemade formulations, while commercial products showed variable particle distribution. This study provides scientific evidence that properly formulated homemade sunscreens with herbal ingredients can offer comparable or superior photoprotection compared to commercial products, while potentially providing additional benefits from bioactive plant compounds. However, further in vivo testing and long-term stability studies are recommended to confirm these findings and establish standardized formulation guidelines for herbal sunscreens.
Keywords
References
- [1] Narayanan D.L., Saladi R.N., Fox J.L., Ultraviolet radiation and skin cancer, International Journal of Dermatology, 49(9) (2010) (978-986).
- [2] Sayre R.M., Agin P.P., Levee G.J., Marlowe E., A comparison of in vivo and in vitro testing of sunscreening formulas, Photochemistry and Photobiology, 29(3) (1979) (559-566).
- [3] Korać R.R., Khambholja K.M., Potential of herbs in skin protection from ultraviolet radiation, Pharmacognosy Reviews, 5(10) (2011) (164-173).
- [4] Cefali L.C., Ataide J.A., Moriel P., Foglio M.A., Mazzola P.G., Plant-based active photoprotectants for sunscreens, International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 38(4) (2016) (346-353).
- [5] DiNardo J.C., Downs C.A., Dermatological and environmental toxicological impact of the sunscreen ingredient oxybenzone/benzophenone-3, Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 17(1) (2018) (15-19).
- [6] Exactitude Consultancy, Turkey Sunscreen Products Market Report 2023, Exactitude Consultancy Market Research Reports, (2023) (Access date: May 12, 2025).
- [7] He H., Li A., Li S., Tang J., Li L., Xiong L., Natural components in sunscreens: Topical formulations with sun protection factor (SPF), Biomedicine & Pharmacotherapy, 134 (2021) (111161).
- [8] Afaq F., Katiyar S.K., Polyphenols: skin photoprotection and inhibition of photocarcinogenesis, Mini Reviews in Medicinal Chemistry, 11(14) (2011) (1200-1215).
- [9] Nichols J.A., Katiyar S.K., Skin photoprotection by natural polyphenols: Anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and DNA repair mechanisms, Archives of Dermatological Research, 302(2) (2010) (71-83).
- [10] Saewan N., Jimtaisong A., Natural products as photoprotection, Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 14(1) (2015) (47-63).
- [11] Katiyar S.K., Ahmad N., Mukhtar H., Green tea and skin, Archives of Dermatology, 136(8) (2001) (989-994).
- [12] Oomah B.D., Ladet S., Godfrey D.V., Liang J., Girard B., Characteristics of raspberry (Rubus idaeus L.) seed oil, Food Chemistry, 69(2) (2000) (187-193).
- [13] Surjushe A., Vasani R., Saple D.G., Aloe vera: A short review, Indian Journal of Dermatology, 53(4) (2008) (163-166).
- [14] Kaur C.D., Saraf S., In vitro sun protection factor determination of herbal oils used in cosmetics, Pharmacognosy Research, 2(1) (2010) (22-25).
- [15] Ulutas O.K., Karadogan F., Akgül S., Yildiz Z.G., Assessing the safety and efficacy of DIY-homemade sunscreens with natural, aromatic and herbal ingredients, Phytochemistry Letters, 59 (2024) (101-107).
- [16] Radice M., Manfredini S., Ziosi P., Dissette V., Buso P., Fallacara A., Vertuani S., Herbal extracts, lichens and biomolecules as natural photo-protection alternatives to synthetic UV filters. A systematic review, Fitoterapia, 114 (2016) (144-162).
- [17] Pérez-Sánchez A., Barrajón-Catalán E., Herranz-López M., Micol V., Nutraceuticals for Skin Care: A Comprehensive Review of Human Clinical Studies, Nutrients, 10(4) (2018) (403).
- [18] Korać R.R., Khambholja K.M., Potential of herbs in skin protection from ultraviolet radiation, Pharmacognosy Reviews, 5(10) (2011) (164-173).
- [19] Smijs T.G., Pavel S., Titanium dioxide and zinc oxide nanoparticles in sunscreens: focus on their safety and effectiveness, Nanotechnology, Science and Applications, 4 (2011) (95-112).
- [20] Lodén M., The clinical benefit of moisturizers, Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology, 19(6) (2005) (672-688).
- [21] Lukić M., Pantelić I., Savić S.D., Towards Optimal pH of the Skin and Topical Formulations: From the Current State of the Art to Tailored Products, Cosmetics, 8(3) (2021) (69).
- [22] Dantas M.G., Reis S.A., Damasceno C.M., Rolim L.A., Rolim-Neto P.J., Carvalho F.O., Quintans-Junior L.J., Almeida J.R., Development and Evaluation of the Stability of a Gel Formulation Containing the Monoterpene Borneol, Scientific World Journal, 2016 (2016) (7394685).
- [23] Rico F., Mazabel A., Egurrola G., Pulido J., Barrios N., Márquez R., García J., Meta-Analysis and Analytical Methods in Cosmetics Formulation: A Review, Cosmetics, 11(1) (2024) (1).
- [24] Geisler A.N., Austin E., Nguyen J., Hamzavi I., Jagdeo J., Lim H.W., Visible light. Part II: Photoprotection against visible and ultraviolet light, Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 84(5) (2021) (1233-1244).
- [25] Crowther J.M., Schütz R., Vollhardt J.H., Ultraviolet transmission microscopy for imaging topical sunscreen emulsions, International Journal of Cosmetic Science, (2022).
- [26] Khaliq F.A., Raza M., Hassan S.U., Iqbal J., Aslam A., Aun M., Ansari M.T., Zahid S., Formulation, Characterization and Evaluation of in vivo Wound Healing Potential of Lawsone Ointment, American Journal of Advanced Drug Delivery, 6(1) (2018).
- [27] Milutinov J., Pavlović N., Ćirin D., Atanacković Krstonošić M., Krstonošić V., The Potential of Natural Compounds in UV-Protective Products, Molecules, 29(22) (2024) (5409).
- [28] Zou W., Ramanathan R., Urban S., Sinclair C., King K., Tinker R., Bansal V., Sunscreen testing: A critical perspective and future roadmap, TrAC Trends in Analytical Chemistry, 157 (2022) (116724).
- [29] Miksa S., Lutz D., Guy C., Delamour E., Sunscreen sun protection factor claim based on in vivo interlaboratory variability, International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 38(6) (2016) (541-549).
- [30] Cavanagh H.M.A., Wilkinson J.M., Biological activities of lavender essential oil, Phytotherapy Research, 16(4) (2002) (301-308).
Details
| Primary Language | English |
|---|---|
| Subjects | Natural Products and Bioactive Compounds, Organic Chemistry (Other) |
| Journal Section | Research Article |
| Authors | |
| Submission Date | May 12, 2025 |
| Acceptance Date | October 6, 2025 |
| Publication Date | December 30, 2025 |
| Published in Issue | Year 2025 Volume: 46 Issue: 4 |
Editor